After a painful lost year, the Hofgut Falkenstein Ockfener Bockstein Kabinett AP 17 "Schorsch" 2025 now makes an impressive return: The 2024 vintage was completely lost to frost, so this Riesling marks, in a sense, the long-awaited comeback after a year's break. The grapes come from the Ockfener Bockstein, more precisely from the higher-lying plot "Im Kalk," where approximately 15-year-old vines stand, once cultivated by Grandpa Schorsch – the namesake of this wine. For several years, this part of the Bockstein has been tended in collaboration with the Kabinett masters, the Weber family from the Konzer Tälchen. Selective hand-picking takes place at the beginning of October, after which the grapes are directly pressed and spontaneously fermented in the cool wooden barrel cellar – entirely in the traditional style of Hofgut Falkenstein.
The Saar Riesling reveals a complex and invigorating aroma: grapefruit, lemon peel, and juicy citrus fruit meet green pepper, fresh herbs, and a cool, slightly smoky minerality. Fine notes of tobacco and a hint of mint are also present, accompanied by the characteristic spice of spontaneous fermentation. On the palate, the Kabinett presents itself precisely and energetically. Tight and juicy at the same time, carried by a lively acidity, the wine is wonderfully mouth-watering and clearly contoured. The fine residual sweetness remains perfectly integrated, while the mineral structure of the Bockstein provides backbone. A delicate creaminess rounds off the overall picture before the wine finishes in a long, fresh finale with citrus, herbal spice, and a fine tobacco note. The 2025 vintage shows "Schorsch" as expressive as rarely before – a characterful Saar Kabinett with tension, length, and the special story of a great comeback.
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